Sewing with double-brushed poly knits is much easier than it sounds, but you have to know what you're doing. In this blog, we will go over some of the different tips and tricks to sewing with double brushed poly knits to ensure a successful sewing experience.
Are you a beginner?
If this is your first time sewing with double brushed poly knits, then don't worry! It may seem like it would be difficult to sew, but because of the way double brushed knit has been finished (doubled stitch), there is little difference in stitching density between the yarn and fabric. As such, it's very simple to use your common machine stitches: straight stitch, zigzag, and serge stitches. If you have any doubts about what the different stitch looks like or how to use it, check out this tutorial.
Do I need unique sewing supplies?
Because the unique finished double DTy brushed fabric poly knits are in general very stretchy, you do not really need additional materials for some basic techniques: needles and pins should be fine. The exception is applique, where extra strength will be needed depending on your technique (such as an overlock or short stitch). Other types of stitching like running stitches, overstitch are best avoided because the fabric will expand. Also, avoid a topstitch that closes up your garment as it makes the finished area's width larger than other stitches, and adjustments in later stages can be more challenging due to extra bulk on both sides, causing seams to pucker and press through.
Tips for cutting out pieces
If you cut wrong, you've made the mistake of cutting into the stitching itself, not just the fabric. For example, if you cut horizontally through a seam allowance on your main section before stitching it together, when you release it and turn up…you've made an opening in your "stitch"! Think about that next time!
How can I avoid having to machine stitch my edges?
It all has to do with planning ahead for different techniques of sewing both ends separately - which often involves picking up from the underarm and pinning them together. The tricky part is that if you cut clean and straight, your stitches will be about half an inch in some places: enough to pucker without your needle going through! So it's very possible to accidentally iron directly onto one or another end of seam allowance as you put on your garment or hem...and while sewing with pins is great for tension control, they don't give you enough accuracy to create 1/2 an inch straight seams, let alone for a full 3/4" seam (the distance between the side seam and shoulder on the sleeve, which is usually about 2-6".)
To solve this problem in those cases of having to join scraps or separate pieces from a larger garment with one less row than the other: Make sure that your stitches barely go through without going all the way. Or pick up from your nearest edge. If you are using a serger, the main thing is to use safety eyes and thread (pre-wound) for neat stitches. At least one 1/4" x 3/4" on the underarm area along the line where the seam will be created should go through without catching itself anywhere as it weaves towards center back! An easy way to make sure that happens: pin a piece of fabric onto your sewing table, with one end of seam allowance facing up, the other (outer) edge just below where you want to start sewing. And pin it right into your design. A little lower than the beginning…and stop a couple of inches before the first pattern piece drops down around neckline and armholes - leave room for stretching when you connect pieces! So long as all two rows are in the same direction over the entire length, this will work, each time tearing off a new piece from the roll.
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